Day 5

Logan Pass Parking Lot - Peak of the Continental Divide

We both slept soundly and awoke at 8:00 AM Mountain Time. We were apprehensive about missing breakfast, but we discovered that it was served until 10:00 AM. Fortunately, Shelley could not miss her oatmeal. The scrambled eggs and sausage were also good. Londell commenced working on the Monday Blog entry and began a load of laundry while Shelley prepared for the day. Although the weather forecast was not particularly favorable, we decided to proceed toward Glacier.

We arrived at Logan Pass at 12:30 PM. Despite the sign indicating that the parking lot was full, we managed to secure a spot. However, our stay was brief as the temperature dropped to the 40s and it began to rain. We opted to drive Going-to-the-Sun East, which would entail driving the entire road.

After approximately an hour, we discovered several trails off St. Mary’s Lake. We embarked on a hiking excursion and were rewarded with breathtaking views and vibrant wildflowers. This side of the park was unfortunately affected by a forest fire in the previous two years. The charred, needle-less pine trunks continue to dominate the lush, young, and vivid green pine seedlings, creating a striking contrast. The glacier is undergoing a remarkable transformation, a testament to its beauty. 

Gorge before Baring Falls	Gorge before Baring Falls
Post 2015 fire	Baring Falls

 

Gorge before Baring Falls

2

 

Wildlife sighting!!!

Rebirth after fire

We exited the park on the east side and discovered that the drive to the cabin was longer than anticipated. A significant portion of the park’s east side and the lands south and east are part of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. The Blackfeet people believe that their livestock should roam freely, so it’s pretty standard to slow down for cows in the middle of the road or walking alongside. It’s advisable to drive slowly, as the road curves continuously, and you never know if you’ll encounter a large black bull. We actually did encounter one the other day.

We also drove past the Blackfeet’s Bison range, where we saw numerous buffalo.

Need we say anything!

Bison in Blackfeet Nation Bison Reserve

Shelley had spotted the Huckleberry Superstore, and of course, a brief stop was necessary. The Montana Huckleberry is native only to the northwestern regions of Montana. It thrives abundantly in the meadows of Glacier National Park. These berries are the preferred food of bears, and hikers are advised to avoid berry patches, as they may encounter grizzly or black bears and their cubs feasting on the delectable berries. The safest way to sample huckleberries is from roadside stands. Shelley’s initial encounter with the fruit was in a Huckleberry Cream Cheese bar. Occasionally, one finds that their offer to share is declined, leaving the entire delicious treat to oneself.

Upon our arrival, we realized that huckleberries could be incorporated into a wide variety of dishes. Jams, preserves, pies, and ice cream toppings are the obvious choices. However, there was also Huckleberry tea, gourmet soda, honey, barbecue sauce, lotions, shampoo, lip balm, and countless other options. We purchased several jars of jam, creamed honey, a four-pack of soda, huckleberry lemonade mix, barbecue sauce, and a slice of Huckleberry pie. The intention was to save these treats for after dinner. Nevertheless, Shelley immediately had to experience the first bite in the car, before she even got the door closed!

We arrived at the cabin at 7:15 PM, and what a joy to behold! Shelley was overjoyed when we rounded the curve and drove into the driveway of the Cowboy cabin at Swan Lake Cabins. It was a storybook log cabin. You should see it for yourself.

Look close, Shelley is up there.	Cowboy cabin at Swan Lake Cabins

 

Shelley did not like the down!

After a long day in the car, we reluctantly left the cabin at 7:45 PM to find dinner. Since Bigfork was the closest option, that’s where we headed. Upon arrival, we were pleasantly surprised by the charming downtown area of Bigfork. The quaint town boasted numerous artsy shops, cozy cafes, and even a small performing arts center. However, we were disappointed to find that most places were closed.

Determined to find a place to eat, we spoke to a friendly storekeeper and decided to try The Garden Kitchen, a budget-friendly burger bar. This place was unique! We had to go straight to the cook and pay for our meal, which he prepared and brought to our table. Then, we had to go to the bar to get drinks. There was no wait staff; we had to pay for each drink individually.

Shelley was delighted to find unsweetened iced tea, and we were even happier when the food arrived. It was excellent! The burger, when fully dressed with pickles, tomato, a giant onion, and lettuce, was at least six inches tall. Shelley’s large mouth easily managed the first bite. Londell declared the fries to be the best. 

Look at all that onion!!!

The Garden Kitchen, where we ordered and paid for the food.

 

We managed to return to the cabin before dark, but we decided to stop at a nearby market to refuel. This meant an additional 20 minutes of shopping for Shelley, although she didn’t purchase much. Londell, on the other hand, indulged in ice cream, as Shelley wouldn’t willingly share the Huckleberry pie we had bought earlier (just kidding, she did ask, but Londell preferred good ice cream). Shelley smiled. We were able to call it a night by 11:00 PM!

Day 4

Londell woke up early at 5:30 AM and made a conscious effort to be quiet. Shelley and I were both exhausted from the hike we had taken the previous day. We decided to enjoy a leisurely morning before our scheduled departure at 9:00 AM. We planned to drive to Essex and have breakfast at the Healthy Haven Café.

Londell taking pictures - Glacier Highland Resort

The cabin at Glacier Highland Resort

 

Empire Builder passing through

It was unfortunate that the Café was closed for the season, so we drove to West Glacier, where Shelley urgently needed bandages. The drive was pleasant, though nothing particularly breathtaking on Highway 2. We successfully found the bandages.  

We were hungry, and it was a late breakfast at around 10:30 AM. We stumbled upon The Glacier Highland Restaurant just off Highway 2 near the park entrance in West Glacier. We made the right choice. Shelley was ravenous and ordered Huckleberry Oatmeal, two eggs, toast, bacon, and a huckleberry pancake. 

Shelley was pleased with the store next door and found herself a nice new tea mug. We headed to Glacier Park and the Going-to-the-Sun Road. We stopped at the Apgar Center and considered taking the bus, but there was a half-hour wait. We decided to rush it and take the drive to see if we could be lucky and get a parking spot.

Our first stop was Avalanche Lake, but there was no parking, and people were circling like buzzards. We decided to head to Logan Pass. Shelley had commented that her neck hurt from looking to the right for a great deal of the trip. We saw many breathtaking views, and Shelley had a few frightening moments.

We arrived at Logan Pass just before 1:00 PM, but the parking situation was dire. Consequently, we decided to return. At 1:45 PM, we returned to Avalanche Lake parking, where we were fortunate enough to secure a prime spot on the second circle. We were eager to make the most of the day and avoid wasting time in the car. 

By 2:00 PM, we embarked on our journey to the Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake. The hike proved challenging due to our fatigue. Additionally, the partly cloudy weather provided a moderate temperature. Approximately one-quarter of a mile into the hike, we encountered a series of falls, which were quite impressive for such a short distance.

 

We arrived at Avalanche Lake just before 4:00 PM. As is typical for such sites, the water appeared low, yet it still held a captivating beauty.

The stay was short-lived as it started raining, and I was worried about waterlogging my camera equipment. Additionally, I was concerned about Shelley’s slippery feet on the rocks, especially on the downhill trails. After taking a 10-minute rest, we decided to head down. Shelley listened to my advice and attempted a slow jog, which made the hike down faster. We stopped to rest and take a photo.

We arrived at the car at 5:25 PM and just as a heavy rainstorm hit. Fortunately, it was short-lived, and we were rewarded with a vivid rainbow against the gray sky. 

 We checked into the newly opened Hampton Inn just before 7:00 PM. It was comfortable and friendly. We arrived downtown at 7:30 PM and faced long waiting lists at most restaurants. MacKenzie River Pizza Co. had a 15-minute wait, so we decided to settle in there. I had spaghetti and meatballs, while Shelley had the Willow Creek sandwich, which featured smoked turkey, bacon, avocado, spinach, tomatoes, mayonnaise, mozzarella, fresh-baked bread, and tortilla chips.

After dinner, I took a quick dip in the pool, while Shelley used the hot tub to soothe her achy feet and ankles. We noticed a lovely gas fire table outside, but didn’t use it due to exhaustion. We ended the night with warm chocolate chip cookies straight from the oven. I got engrossed in the pictures and this blog, so we were well past 11 AM before going to bed.

Carry on my friends, carry on!

Day 3

I woke up at 5:30 AM and went to the lobby to let Shelley sleep. At 6:45 AM, we ate breakfast at the Hampton Inn in Great Falls. The breakfast spread included eggs, bacon, waffles, pastries, and oatmeal. We loaded the car and left by 8:00 AM, despite the rain, cold, and winter storm warning. We were determined to make the most of the day.

We entered Glacier National Park via Two Medicine Lake, the mountains shrouded in heavy cloud cover. As we ascended, the clouds thinned, revealing the grandeur of Glacier. Shelley’s tears of joy mirrored the intense beauty. Londell, concerned, was mistaken; Shelley was experiencing her dream. We planned to hike to Running Eagle Falls, Appistoki Falls, and Aster Falls. Arriving at the park, we seized the opportunity for a photo.

We arrived at Eagle Falls around 11:00 AM and had a small snack before starting our day.   (http://www.hikinginglacier.com/running-eagle-falls.htm) Eagle Falls was nice, but the low water level made only one of the two falls active. The “Trick Falls” was not flowing. This was a 1-mile easy hike. 
  

Running Eagle Falls

Shelley, always interested in the story, learned that Running Eagle was a Piikuni (one of the three nations of the Blackfoot Confederacy) warrior princess.  The chief was her father who died when Running Eagle was a young woman.  She had to raise her brothers and sisters.  To provide for them, she quickly learned to hunt, and defend herself from aggressive competing tribes.  

She carved and created her own weapons, as well as clothing for her siblings.  Running Eagle accompanied the male warriors into battle with other tribes, as well as white man expeditions.  She was highly regarded, even revered by her tribe, and therefore was buried just above these falls.

Pokémon sighting!

We completed our hike by noon and made our way to Appistoki Falls, which was located near the main lodge.  (http://www.hikinginglacier.com/appistoki-falls.htm) Shelley discovered some enjoyable sights along the way. However, when we arrived at the falls, they were quite small and not particularly impressive. It felt like a waste of the 2.3 miles we had covered, with only about 200 feet of elevation gain. Nevertheless, it was a good workout and helped us burn some calories.

We were beginning to lose interest, as the mist was cold, and Londell was not well-prepared for the rainy, freezing conditions. We went to the store and found some really nice rain jackets on sale and in each of our sizes. They were $19.95 each!  We could not pass them up. We also picked up bear spray for the next journey to Aster Falls, as all trailheads warned of bears. "You are entering Grizzly country; you may encounter bears". Bear Spray, which is similar to intense pepper spray, is recommended as a deterrent for aggressive bears. We ate a light snack and headed out at 2:00 PM for the hike, which is 2.8 miles with about 400 feet of climb http://www.hikinginglacier.com/aster-falls.htm

On our way to Aster Falls, we stopped at Paradise Point. We took some pictures there, including one without our new matching jackets.

As we made our way to Aster Falls, both of us were experiencing the familiar sensation of “feeling the burn.” This wasn’t a political statement; our thighs were simply in pain! Shelley also had a blister on the inside of her foot, near her big toe, which was excruciatingly painful.

We arrived at the falls, nonetheless.  This was well worth the hike, especially after the letdown we had on the last few hikes. 

We returned quickly, arriving 10 minutes before the Two Medicine Lake boat tour. The 45-minute tour was informative, with the “captain” providing a historical narrative of the lake. 

The boat, the oldest in the Glacier Lakes fleet, was built in 1923. Glacier National Park was established in 1910, and visitors arriving via the Empire Builder train would stay at the Lodge near the park entrance. Over two weeks, guests would travel the park’s miles on horseback and stay in lodges. Shelley agreed it was the perfect vacation. The history lesson was interesting, but we were chilled from the hike and the tour. After disembarking, we slowly returned to the car, feeling the onset of post-hiking stiffness and achy feet. Time for the hotel!

It was 6:15 before we were in the car, headed to Summit Mountain Lodge, the digs for the night.  We arrived at 7:30 PM and quickly checked in and went to the lodge to eat. It was 9:00 PM when we were getting prepared to call it a night. Although not without the Huckleberry Cheesecake. While this was a nice place, there was neither Internet nor any phone connections. 

Carry on my friends, carry on!

Day 2

At 6:15 AM, we awoke and prepared for the extended day ahead. Our itinerary included meeting my parents in Tower City for breakfast before embarking on the considerably longer drive. Shelley expressed great enthusiasm for the hotel and its amenities, particularly the strawberry smoothie served for breakfast. We departed the hotel before 7:30 AM

Upon our arrival in Tower City at 8:00 AM, my parents were present shortly thereafter. Both appeared visibly fatigued and stressed. We shared breakfast, and I accompanied my father outside to observe the drone. This also provided an opportunity for Shelley to settle the bill. My father was captivated by the drone, although I also demonstrated the Apple Watch to him, which also left a positive impression.

We departed Tower City at 9:15 AM, and the weather conditions were favorable. The temperature was approximately 75°F, and scattered clouds were visible in the sky. We drove continuously without interruption until Mandan, where we refueled. Shelley took over driving duties. Our progress was commendable, but driving at 80 miles per hour resulted in reduced fuel efficiency of 33 miles per gallon.

Before reaching the Badlands, we exchanged driving responsibilities, allowing Shelley to engage in sightseeing. We drove at maximum speed to expedite our journey to Great Falls. I was astounded by the minimal traffic and the absence of law enforcement patrols.

Just outside Circle, Nebraska, I experienced a moment of apprehension. I was traveling at approximately 35 miles per hour in a 25-mile-per-hour zone when I encountered a sheriff’s vehicle. However, upon closer inspection, I realized that it was merely a mannequin.

We filled with gas and proceeded to a point where the road was under construction. Really under construction as we drove on the mud/clay. So happy it was not raining. 

We arrived in Great Falls, MT at 6:15 PM. We visited two J’s markets, but they were unremarkable. Shelley wanted a deli with salads, so we checked into the Hampton Inn at 7:00 PM. I streamed the Nebraska game for Shelley, and we had dinner at Albertson’s with rotisserie chicken and four salads. We returned to the hotel in time to relax and prepare for bed before 10 PM. Tomorrow involves driving, but we plan to hike many miles.

 

Carry on my friends, carry on!

Day 1

After a considerable period, Shelley and I embarked on a vacation. Given the recent developments, we felt the need for a respite, leading us to select Glacier National Park as our destination for our fall break.

We departed from our residence in Apple Valley, Minnesota, at 1:15 PM on Friday, September 2, 2016. We entrusted our 18-month-old Golden Retriever, Porter, to the care of Shelley’s daughter during our absence.

Navigating the outbound traffic proved challenging, prompting me to take the back roads to Albertville, Minnesota. From there, our journey was relatively straightforward, culminating in our arrival in Fargo just after 6:00 PM. We checked into the “Element” hotel before dining at People's Organic.

Following dinner, we traversed the North Dakota State University campus and downtown Fargo. While the city held some allure, I was astounded by the extent of its deterioration. Shelley expressed enthusiasm upon discovering the store depicted below, which may only resonate with a select few.

On our return to the hotel, we made a brief stop at Natural Grocer to procure refreshments. I intend to retire early, as we anticipate a lengthy drive tomorrow. We called it a night by 9:45 PM.

Carry on my friends, carry on!